As some of you know, Sean and I have been trying to make some decisions regarding our next trip. I need to leave Thailand at the end of February and get a new visa so we figured we'd make a vacation out of it rather than just doing a visa-run (that's when travelers take a bus to the nearest border, cross it, and then turn around and come back. That sounds horrible, right?! Especially the bus part...) Side note: It's amazing that we've been here so long that I need to renew my visa!!! It feels like we just left.
So, today while I was checking into some flight information our decision was practically made for us in the form of a huge seat sale. Flights to Kuala Lumpur for the time we needed to go were on sale for $0! Love. It. I immediately called Sean (who's response was "I say do it"), and proceeded to book the flight (which, obviously did not cost $0 in the end...I'm pretty sure airlines are the only companies in the world that could get away with that kind of "sale"). We'll be traveling from Feb. 28 - Mar. 4. At this point we have no idea where we'll be going or what we'll be doing once we get there but I'm sure we'll find all kinds of fantastic things to see and do between now and then.
Here's the Malaysian Government tourism website in case you're interested: www.tourism.gov.my
Wednesday, January 30, 2008
Thursday, January 24, 2008
BKK smoking ban?
Going to any club here is like going to the Sundance during the pre-smoking ban days. i.e. Gross. We have to come home and quarantine all our clothes so that the entire apartment doesn't stink of tobacco. Not to mention the resulting congestion and coughing that lasts a solid 24 hours. (How did we EVER enjoy going downtown?!). So, when Sean told me yesterday that as of mid-February smoking in public places would actually be banned here in Bangkok, I was super excited! Of course, we had to find proof before I believed it 100%. We tracked down this "breaking news" article, which confirms the rumor.
We'll have to wait and see if the law will actually be enforced. It's not unlikely that this rule, like so many others, will be bent and temporarily forgotten at times. Hopefully we'll be able to report less-yucky clubbing experiences as of next month :)
We'll have to wait and see if the law will actually be enforced. It's not unlikely that this rule, like so many others, will be bent and temporarily forgotten at times. Hopefully we'll be able to report less-yucky clubbing experiences as of next month :)
Monday, January 21, 2008
Mango with gelatinous rice!
We just got back from grocery shopping and I bought a yummy treat that I feel compelled to share with you all! It is my latest favorite Thai discovery, and yes, it involves food!
A couple of weeks ago we had dinner with Angus and Oh and as always, we let them do the choosing and ordering. It's a fantastic way to get the best dishes and to try new things (somehow I don't think the term "pork with rice" has been properly translated...it's used for pretty much every dish that has pork and rice in the ingredient list. The Thai title must be much more descriptive and appetizing, right?). So anyway, on this occasion Angus ordered Mango with Gelatinous Rice for dessert. See what I mean about the lack of excitment that term incites? But despite our questioning about what exactly "gelatinous rice" is (I still don't really know) the dessert turned out to be FAB! Since then, everytime I see it (which is actually quite often...) I have to pick some up. YUM. It's basically some sort of fancy rice with coconut milk on top and you eat it with yummy mango. Here's a pic...it's all gone now ;)
A couple of weeks ago we had dinner with Angus and Oh and as always, we let them do the choosing and ordering. It's a fantastic way to get the best dishes and to try new things (somehow I don't think the term "pork with rice" has been properly translated...it's used for pretty much every dish that has pork and rice in the ingredient list. The Thai title must be much more descriptive and appetizing, right?). So anyway, on this occasion Angus ordered Mango with Gelatinous Rice for dessert. See what I mean about the lack of excitment that term incites? But despite our questioning about what exactly "gelatinous rice" is (I still don't really know) the dessert turned out to be FAB! Since then, everytime I see it (which is actually quite often...) I have to pick some up. YUM. It's basically some sort of fancy rice with coconut milk on top and you eat it with yummy mango. Here's a pic...it's all gone now ;)
Ban Baat (Monk's Bowl Village)
Yesterday Sean and I made our way to an area of town that I've had my eye on for weeks! Ban Baat or "Monk's Bowl Village", once a thriving community of alms bowl makers, now consists of one tiny alleyway where three families still make these beautiful bowls by hand. The alms bowl is one of the most important objects in the daily life of a monk. It is used primarily to collect food donations from Buddhist people supporting the monks. Traditionally these bowls were all handmade but now monks can purchase factory made alms for one tenth the price, meaning that most sales of the handmade bowls now come from tourists. You can read more about this tradition here
When we finally found the tiny road we were looking for, we couldn't help but be surprised. Unlike most other areas of Bangkok that cater to tourists, Ban Baat seemed completely unaffected and unspoiled. We found a battered sign indicating the way and were then led down a series of alleyways to the craftsman by an elderly Thai woman. All the way through this maze we were greeted by people just sitting around their homes, going about their daily lives; no evidence of the pushy street market hawkers that line the rest of Bangkok's tourist destinations! At one point Sean whispered from behind: "Hey Meg! This is awesome!"
When we finally arrived at the "shop" we found a battered display case sitting at the front of someone's living room (I use the term "living room" loosely - I won't get into the details now but this little village would certainly be considered poverty-stricken by any Western definition). The alms maker and his assistant greeted us and proceeded to give us a demonstration of how the bowls are created. Each bowl is put together using eight pieces of metal to represent Buddhism's eight-fold path. Some are lacquered and shiny while others are left natural so each of these eight pieces can be seen. We walked away 10 minutes later with two beautiful bowls and the feeling that we'd finally seen something that was truly and naturally "Thai".
When we finally found the tiny road we were looking for, we couldn't help but be surprised. Unlike most other areas of Bangkok that cater to tourists, Ban Baat seemed completely unaffected and unspoiled. We found a battered sign indicating the way and were then led down a series of alleyways to the craftsman by an elderly Thai woman. All the way through this maze we were greeted by people just sitting around their homes, going about their daily lives; no evidence of the pushy street market hawkers that line the rest of Bangkok's tourist destinations! At one point Sean whispered from behind: "Hey Meg! This is awesome!"
When we finally arrived at the "shop" we found a battered display case sitting at the front of someone's living room (I use the term "living room" loosely - I won't get into the details now but this little village would certainly be considered poverty-stricken by any Western definition). The alms maker and his assistant greeted us and proceeded to give us a demonstration of how the bowls are created. Each bowl is put together using eight pieces of metal to represent Buddhism's eight-fold path. Some are lacquered and shiny while others are left natural so each of these eight pieces can be seen. We walked away 10 minutes later with two beautiful bowls and the feeling that we'd finally seen something that was truly and naturally "Thai".
Tuesday, January 15, 2008
Floating market
Meg and I enjoyed another eventful weekend in Thailand as we explored more of both the Bangkok nightlife and Thailand countryside. Friday, we had supper at a Mongolian restaurant called "Mongo's". The food was delicious and my burger was ridiculously huge...but yummy down to the last bite. Afterwards, we ventured to soi 11 off Th Sukhumvit to explore some of the bars there. We passed an outdoor bar called "Cheap Charlie's" which drew our attention immediately with the following sign that was posted on their bar (warning: some language may not be suitable for all readers!):
Then, we went to the Bed Supperclub for a few drinks. It was an oddly shaped and decorated club which was not as interesting as we'd heard but we still had fun. I was dropping tired so we ended up going home early - 10pm early. I know, I know, I'm getting old.
On Saturday, we went to meet Meg's yoga friend Sarah (from Ottawa) at EZZE, a techno club in RCA (a clubbing district), where her boyfriend was a DJ and celebrating his birthday. We'd met a couple of Sarah's friends before and had a good time chatting and meeting new people. But, once again, we went home early (midnight) because of a 6am rise to go to the floating market.
Actually, there are a couple of floating markets throughout Thailand but we were going on a tour with Angus and Oh to Damnoen Saduak, 104km west of Bangkok. Traditionally, floating markets were where people sold foods and other goods when canals and boats were the primary mode of transportation. Now, it is little more than a tourist attraction but still worth seeing how people lived 20-30 years ago.
After exploring the market's canals and goods, we went to a snake show. Shows involving snakes and crocs are common in Thailand so we thought it might be interesting to check out...especially after our snake experience on the streets of Bangkok in December. The snakes they had were amazing! From King Cobras to Pit Vipers, they had it all. Meg wasn't quite as impressed as I was. :) We watched a 30 minute show where trainers would dodge the venomous strikes of cobras and then catch them with their hands or mouths! Yes, mouths! We were turned off from the show when they put a cobra and mongoose into a container together until the mongoose attacked the cobra, maiming it. It seemed cruel and unnecessary. At least I got my picture taken with a python!
Finally, we went to Nakhon Pathon to see Phra Pathom Chedi, the tallest Buddhist monument in the world. Unfortunately, we didn't have a lot of time to look around but we did enjoy going into one of the shrines.
Overall, it was a fantastic trip and we're looking forward to exploring more of Thailand. Next on the list is Ayuthaya, Thailand's old capital.
Then, we went to the Bed Supperclub for a few drinks. It was an oddly shaped and decorated club which was not as interesting as we'd heard but we still had fun. I was dropping tired so we ended up going home early - 10pm early. I know, I know, I'm getting old.
On Saturday, we went to meet Meg's yoga friend Sarah (from Ottawa) at EZZE, a techno club in RCA (a clubbing district), where her boyfriend was a DJ and celebrating his birthday. We'd met a couple of Sarah's friends before and had a good time chatting and meeting new people. But, once again, we went home early (midnight) because of a 6am rise to go to the floating market.
Actually, there are a couple of floating markets throughout Thailand but we were going on a tour with Angus and Oh to Damnoen Saduak, 104km west of Bangkok. Traditionally, floating markets were where people sold foods and other goods when canals and boats were the primary mode of transportation. Now, it is little more than a tourist attraction but still worth seeing how people lived 20-30 years ago.
After exploring the market's canals and goods, we went to a snake show. Shows involving snakes and crocs are common in Thailand so we thought it might be interesting to check out...especially after our snake experience on the streets of Bangkok in December. The snakes they had were amazing! From King Cobras to Pit Vipers, they had it all. Meg wasn't quite as impressed as I was. :) We watched a 30 minute show where trainers would dodge the venomous strikes of cobras and then catch them with their hands or mouths! Yes, mouths! We were turned off from the show when they put a cobra and mongoose into a container together until the mongoose attacked the cobra, maiming it. It seemed cruel and unnecessary. At least I got my picture taken with a python!
Finally, we went to Nakhon Pathon to see Phra Pathom Chedi, the tallest Buddhist monument in the world. Unfortunately, we didn't have a lot of time to look around but we did enjoy going into one of the shrines.
Overall, it was a fantastic trip and we're looking forward to exploring more of Thailand. Next on the list is Ayuthaya, Thailand's old capital.
Thursday, January 10, 2008
Suan Lum Night Bazaar
Every night a gigantic outdoor area of Bangkok is overtaken by thousands of vendors selling everything from expensive clothes and bags to cheap souvenirs and foot massages. We had no idea what to expect when Angus and Oh picked us up last night; we'd been meaning to go to this market since we arrived in Bangkok but had just never gotten around to it.
The first stop in the market was the beer garden. Obviously. ;) The boys needed some fuel before the long night of shopping started! We had amazing food and cold beer at an outdoor table - true Thai dining (although I was trying not to think about the fact that the vendors were really just selling "street food" in a slightly nicer setting). Angus and Oh continued their quest to improve our Thai. We learned how to politely say "no" to a waiter's offer of more beer: Mai Bpen Lai Cruhp Khun Kaa. It literally means "nevermind thank you very much" and is a generic term you can use for pretty much anything you don't want or don't care about (like someone bumping into you on the street). We'll be fluent before long!
Next it was off to tackle the rows and rows of vendors! Sean and I quickly agreed that this was the nicest place we've shopped. The vendors weren't loud and pushy like they are in some places and the shops actually had a lot of really nice stuff! Oh and I kept veering into the clothes and jewelry shops while Angus and Sean were amazed by the fake ninja weaponry ;)
Finally Oh convinced Angus and Sean to get a foot massage and leave us girls to browse (although that really didn't take much convincing). We then went on a search for clothes to fit me, the Westerner. Not likely! Asian people may be small in general but Thais are TINY! Everything is one size - you just hope the elastic will stretch enough. Oh was optimistic and kept pointing out great things (she noted that we have the same taste and so she always knew when I was going to point to something and like it!). Unfortunately the elastic just wouldn't stretch quite enough ;) I did end up with a great new necklace though!!! Gotta love jewelry and shoes.
The night ended with more beer on yet another outdoor patio. We all had a great night and can't wait to do it again. Our next adventure with Angus and Oh will take place this weekend - we're going to the floating market!
The first stop in the market was the beer garden. Obviously. ;) The boys needed some fuel before the long night of shopping started! We had amazing food and cold beer at an outdoor table - true Thai dining (although I was trying not to think about the fact that the vendors were really just selling "street food" in a slightly nicer setting). Angus and Oh continued their quest to improve our Thai. We learned how to politely say "no" to a waiter's offer of more beer: Mai Bpen Lai Cruhp Khun Kaa. It literally means "nevermind thank you very much" and is a generic term you can use for pretty much anything you don't want or don't care about (like someone bumping into you on the street). We'll be fluent before long!
Next it was off to tackle the rows and rows of vendors! Sean and I quickly agreed that this was the nicest place we've shopped. The vendors weren't loud and pushy like they are in some places and the shops actually had a lot of really nice stuff! Oh and I kept veering into the clothes and jewelry shops while Angus and Sean were amazed by the fake ninja weaponry ;)
Finally Oh convinced Angus and Sean to get a foot massage and leave us girls to browse (although that really didn't take much convincing). We then went on a search for clothes to fit me, the Westerner. Not likely! Asian people may be small in general but Thais are TINY! Everything is one size - you just hope the elastic will stretch enough. Oh was optimistic and kept pointing out great things (she noted that we have the same taste and so she always knew when I was going to point to something and like it!). Unfortunately the elastic just wouldn't stretch quite enough ;) I did end up with a great new necklace though!!! Gotta love jewelry and shoes.
The night ended with more beer on yet another outdoor patio. We all had a great night and can't wait to do it again. Our next adventure with Angus and Oh will take place this weekend - we're going to the floating market!
Monday, January 7, 2008
SHARK!!!
Meg and I had an eventful first weekend back in Bangkok. Friday night, our friends Angus and Oh took us for our first authentic Thai clubbing experience. There are two major differences from what we're used to: 1) you can't buy beer or single mixed drinks. You buy 40s of whiskey instead! and 2) there are no dance floors, you just dance at the standing table you're drinking at. I have to hand it to the Thais, they know how to drink. They may even rival the Newfoundlanders!
The rest of our weekend was spent doing the tourist thing. We first went to Jim Thompson's house for a tour of the place. JT was an American OSS officer stationed in Bangkok after WWII. He resigned, settled in Bangkok, and was responsible for rejuvenating the Thai silk trade and marketing it internationally. In 1967, he went for a walk in Malaysia and mysteriously disappeared - to this day, no one knows what happened to him. Creepy!
Afterwards, we went to Siam Ocean World, a gigantic indoor aquarium. The tour was really fascinating and featured all kinds of aquatic life. My favorites were the rays and turtles but Meg seemed more interested in the sharks. :)
Actually, for anyone who doesn't know, Meg's greatest fear ever is sharks...which made the tour a lot of fun for me. There was a "glass bottom boat tour" that we took. When the first shark passed underneath the boat in perfect view, Meg almost cried. ;) Make sure your volume is turned up for this one....
The rest of our weekend was spent doing the tourist thing. We first went to Jim Thompson's house for a tour of the place. JT was an American OSS officer stationed in Bangkok after WWII. He resigned, settled in Bangkok, and was responsible for rejuvenating the Thai silk trade and marketing it internationally. In 1967, he went for a walk in Malaysia and mysteriously disappeared - to this day, no one knows what happened to him. Creepy!
Afterwards, we went to Siam Ocean World, a gigantic indoor aquarium. The tour was really fascinating and featured all kinds of aquatic life. My favorites were the rays and turtles but Meg seemed more interested in the sharks. :)
Actually, for anyone who doesn't know, Meg's greatest fear ever is sharks...which made the tour a lot of fun for me. There was a "glass bottom boat tour" that we took. When the first shark passed underneath the boat in perfect view, Meg almost cried. ;) Make sure your volume is turned up for this one....
Christmas update
When we got home from Tokyo we were very excited to put all of our Christmas presents and cards under our tree! I can't believe people actually sent Christmas cards all the way over here!!!! Thanks guys! :) Here's a shot of us with our mini tree fully stocked with goodies. Do you like Sean's new samurai outfit??? He's pretty excited about it ;)
Shibuya Crossing
Being from little ol' Newfoundland, Meg and I are always amazed by the ridiculous number of people running around the major cities here. This video was taken while making our way through Shibuya Crossing - a major intersection in Tokyo which is supposed to be the busiest in the world.
Thursday, January 3, 2008
Japan vacation
Well, after spending 10 days in Japan enjoying the Christmas and New Year's holidays with my brother Michael, Meg and I are back in Bangkok. We tried to do and see as much as possible while we were there. Most of our time was spent in Tokyo, with the exception of a 3 day excursion to Hakone and Hiroshima. In Tokyo, we explored various temples, the Tokyo National Museum, the Imperial gardens, and some of the more popular Tokyo wards - like Harajuku, Shinjuku, Shibuya, and Roppongi. We sampled a number of different Japanese restaurants, enjoying sushi bars and other local dishes as often as our appetites would allow. We also had sake for the first time...and second, third, forth, etc...yum!
On Christmas morning, we went to a small cafe to eat breakfast and open presents. It wasn't exactly a traditional Christmas as we lacked a tree and music (and family!) but we still had a great time. The turkey dinner we had for supper at an English pub definitely made it feel more like home.
On the 27th, the 3 of us travelled by Shinkansen (the express train) to Hakone. It is a beautiful area with amazing scenery. The highlight was taking a gondola lift up a mountain which had an incredible view of Mt. Fuji...although Meg might argue that soaking in the hot springs was even better. :) We all agreed that it would have been worth staying in Hakone for a few more days to go camping and hiking.
On the 28th, we continued southwest by train to Hiroshima. The Peace Memorial Park was incredible. The museum offered a frightening look into the horrors of the atomic bombing of Hiroshima in 1945. Still standing in the park are the remains of the only structure to have survived the bomb, the A-bomb Dome.
From Hiroshima, we caught a ferry on the 29th to Miyajima where we found the Itsukushima Shrine. There were tame deer everywhere, following us around and boldly nudging our hands in search of food. That night we got the train back to Tokyo where we spent the next couple of days exploring more of the city.
On New Year's Eve, we went with Michael to a huge 3-story club in the Shibuya ward. It was incredibly packed and we counted down to the New Year with a very energetic and friendly Japanese crowd. Since we had an early 6am rise to go to the airport, we left the club around 1am - not before we indulged in some public drinking on the streets of Tokyo first though.
Well, that's a brief summary of our trip. More pictures can be found here. Happy New Year!
On Christmas morning, we went to a small cafe to eat breakfast and open presents. It wasn't exactly a traditional Christmas as we lacked a tree and music (and family!) but we still had a great time. The turkey dinner we had for supper at an English pub definitely made it feel more like home.
On the 27th, the 3 of us travelled by Shinkansen (the express train) to Hakone. It is a beautiful area with amazing scenery. The highlight was taking a gondola lift up a mountain which had an incredible view of Mt. Fuji...although Meg might argue that soaking in the hot springs was even better. :) We all agreed that it would have been worth staying in Hakone for a few more days to go camping and hiking.
On the 28th, we continued southwest by train to Hiroshima. The Peace Memorial Park was incredible. The museum offered a frightening look into the horrors of the atomic bombing of Hiroshima in 1945. Still standing in the park are the remains of the only structure to have survived the bomb, the A-bomb Dome.
From Hiroshima, we caught a ferry on the 29th to Miyajima where we found the Itsukushima Shrine. There were tame deer everywhere, following us around and boldly nudging our hands in search of food. That night we got the train back to Tokyo where we spent the next couple of days exploring more of the city.
On New Year's Eve, we went with Michael to a huge 3-story club in the Shibuya ward. It was incredibly packed and we counted down to the New Year with a very energetic and friendly Japanese crowd. Since we had an early 6am rise to go to the airport, we left the club around 1am - not before we indulged in some public drinking on the streets of Tokyo first though.
Well, that's a brief summary of our trip. More pictures can be found here. Happy New Year!
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